Radyr: A history
Jul
Radyr and its close neighbour Morganstown lie six miles north west of Cardiff.
Geographically, it sits to the west of the River Taff, mostly on high ground, and situated on a point which marks the boundary of the coastal plain of Glamorgan.
These days of course, it is a pleasant residential community, which reaps the benefits of good road and rail communications. But its history, like other villages in North Cardiff, start in prehistoric times. Its rock formations show indications of desert rock debris from 275 million years ago. At this point in time, Radyr, like the rest of South Wales, lay on the same latitude as the modern-day Sahara. As the glaciers retreated at the end of the last Ice Age, the glacial valley of the River Taff cut through this rock, and woodlands began to flourish on the new fertile lands that spread down from the valleys.
Archaeological discoveries in the early 20th century confirm that early man had been dwelling in the area in the Stone Ages (5000BC- 3000BC). Worked flint that would have been used by hunters was discovered in a local cave in 1912. Fragments of pottery dating from the Bronze Age (1000BC) were found in later excavations along with needles and combs made from animal bones. The cave seems to have been abandoned not long after this, although there was some evidence of its use in the Dark Ages (5th-7th centuries).
At the southern end of Taff Terrace (and to the east of Woodland Avenue) lies a mound of burned stones which would have been used by prehistoric man to assist in cooking animals after a hunt in the early Bronze Age. The first recorded reference to Radyr can be found in the Life of St Cadog, which was written in the 11th century. It was written by the son of Bishop Herewald of Llandaff, who later became Archdeacon of Glamorgan.
Lifris wrote about events in 530AD when Cadog was beckoned to his father who lay dying. His route can be traced from the old church in Whitchurch and St John the Baptist at Radyr. Cadog’s servant, Istan described how they found the river at Radyr impossible to cross, but they were helped by a hermit who lived in the river bank. The hermit was also said to strike his staff into the ground, creating a spring of healing water near St John’s Church. A spring still exists in local woodland at the southern end of the marshalling yard at Radyr railway station. It was referred to by railway workers in the 19th century as the ‘Pitcher Cooler’.
The historical account by Lifris confirms the existence of a settlement and possibly an early church in the 11th century. The effects of agriculture were already having an impact on North Cardiff by the time of the Norman conquest of South Wales. ‘Commotes’, or hamlets were grouped into larger areas and protected by a local Welsh chieftan. These ‘cantrefs’ extended from the Brecon Beacons down to the coast.
The Normans were quick to realise the benefit of the fertile land and between 1081 and 1095, took control under Robert Fitzhamon. Complete Norman rule was achieved in 1247, when Earl Richard de Clare brought together all the neighbouring commotes. It was around this time, in 1254, that the church of St John the Baptist was officially recognised in an official document, being valued for taxation purposes at £4.
The river Taff would have played an important part in the life of Radyr. In addition to fishing, the river also powered the mill which was an essential part of everyday life. The people of Radyr would have diverted the current into the mill stream to what would become known as Melin Griffith. It was named after Griffith, son of Ifor Bach, whose infamous raids on Cardiff Castle are welldocumented.
Devastation to Radyr was brought about by revolts by the Welsh lords in 1316 (Llewellyn Bren) and 1400 (Owain Glyndwr). The villages were rebuilt and for the 150 years leading up to 1469, were administered by descendants of Iestyn ap Gwrgant, the last Welsh Lord of Morgannwg. After this, Radyr passed into the hands of Thomas Mathew.
There were two large manorial houses in Radyr around this time: the original manor house of Radyr Isha near the church, and Radyr Ucha, on the site now occupied by the entrance to the Radyr Comprehensive School. Much of the land surrounding them became a deer park at that time, whilst Radyr Ucha itself became a farmhouse.
Radyr Isha eventually fell into ruin and a new house, which became known as Radyr Court, was constructed by the Mathews. The Mathews had become one of the leading families in the area. David Mathew was renowned for his hospitality to travellers. Pilgrims who often passed through Radyr on their way to the shrine at Penrhys would be entertained and tended to at the Radyr Court.
From 1801 onwards, a census was carried out, enabling a more accurate picture of the area to be kept. A tithe map made in 1841 showed that there was a group of cottages facing Heol Isaf which are no longer visible.
In the 18th and 19th centuries, the village was served by only a small number of roads, of which the main ones were the highway to Llantrisant and the present Heol Isaf leading to the Taff Gorge. With the birth of industrialisation in the late 1800s, ironworks became a leading industry. Furthermore, the Glamorganshire Canal was constructed through the area to supply the docks of Cardiff with coal from the valleys. Gas lighting saw increasing usage and in 1907, the Radyr Electric Company was created to provide a number of houses with electric lighting.
Some of the middle class residents had maids, while larger houses employed fulltime staff. Cars began to appear in the village. At first, these were mostly driven by chauffeurs for the rich. Social, educational and business venues were soon established, and provided services to the residents of Radyr and Morganstown through the years of war and peace during the 20th century. The area has thus settled to become the community that exists to this day.
Adapted from information provided by the New Horizons History Group in 2010
